Art of shoemaking.



A. B. WALES. ART OF SHOEMAKING. APPLICATION man APR. 25. 19m.

Patented J mm 0 a m s u ZN MMM UN ITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ALFRED B. WALES, OF WHITMAN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOB, BY MESNE ASSIGN-MEETS, 1'0 UNITED SHOE MACHINEBY COMPANY, OF PATEBSON, NEW JERSEY, A

conronarlon or new msnv.

ART OF snomxmo.

Specification of Letters mum.

Application filed April 25, ISIL Serial Ho. 834,438.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, Arr-nan B. Wants, a citizen of the United States,residing at Whitman, in the county of Plymouth and State ofMassachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in the Art ofShoemaking', of which the following description, in connection with theaccompanying raw ings, is a specification, like reference characters onthe drawing indicating like parts in the several This invention relatesto improvements in the art of sh and particularly to the manufacture ofboots or shoes hav ng blind eyelets.

What is termed-4 blind eyelet is an eyelet set in the or facing stay ofa shoe upper beneath the leather or outer ortionoftheupandinregisterwitha ole through the tier portion which permits the assageof the lacing. The term is also emp oyed to designate an eyelet set inthe outer portion of an upper above the hole in the fa stay.

Hereto ore,sofar aslmowntomainthe setting of blind eyelets both theleather and the lining arts of the upper are punched and after t isoperation has been completed r is removed from the punchi rtion turnedbac e "Pe machine and the leather set in the lining machine. This sothat the eyelets may andling of the in a foot power eyel od entails asecond stock which is a relatively slow operation and also objectionablein that the upper must be stretched somewhat to permit the pro rlocation of the setting dies of the ma e when the endmost eyelets in theline.

In accordance with the present invention an improved method iscontemplated where by the punching and eyeletin operations may becarried out while the eather and linmg portions of the upper aremaintained in the normal relation which they occupy permanently in thefinished shoe. This method obviates the necessity of turning back theleather portion and stretching the.

up in the insertion of the blind eyelets, as by the method heretoforepractised, and also greatly expedites the proces of manu factu the shoeand results in an important saving to the shoe manufacturer. In fact, ithas been customary to allow an oporator twelve cents r dozen pair forinsorting blind eyelets y the methods heretofore pract sed, whereas, bythe method of my inventlon the cost to, the manufacturer is reduced totwo cents per dozen pair for In my eprior application Serial No.695,064, in

May 4, 1912, I have disclosed and claimed an eyeleting machine by? whichcertam steps of my improved method may be earned out, but it shouldbe'understood that the restri to this or any particular eyeletingmachine or eyelet setting tools but may be carried out by any deviceswhatsoever whereby it is possible to set blind eyelets in one of the twoparts of an upper while that part occupies the same normal relation tothe upper part of the upper which js maintained m a finished shoe.

In the accompanying certain steps of my improved method are i ustratedin connection wit h the machine of my application above noted.

Inthe drawin Figure 1 is a plan view of the upsetting e; Fig. 2 is aview in elevation, partly in section, of the punchingandinsertingtools;Fi .3isasim1larview showing the punch in e positionwhich it occupies at the conclusion of the punching operation; Fig. 4 isa similar view showing the tools in the position occupied at theconclusion of the operation; Fig. 5 is a pe 've view 0 the upper of anOxford in which a few blind eyelets have been set in accordance with myimproved method.

11 practising the method 0281:? inver- 'on in the manner herein disclthe up and lining which have been previously cut out are broughttogether with their upperedgesinregister andsecuredinthisporactice ofthis novel method is not sition by cement which has previously beenapplied to one part or the other. This op eration is known as Balturning and by it the leather and lining parts of the upper are broughtinto that relation which they ations.

The second step in the present method consists in perforatin or punchingentirely through both parts 0 the upper. The hole thus formed in theleather or outer portion remains to be seen in the finished shoe whiletheblind eyelet is set in the hole formed in the lining portion with itsflange inside the upper and the end of its barra clenched on the inneror concealed surface of the lining beneath the leather or outer part. I

The third step of the present method con sists in inserting the blmdeyelet while the two parts of the upper are maintained in their normalposition. As above stated this may be efiected by any tools suitable forthe desired function.

I will now briefly describe the practia of my improved method when theeyelet inserting operation is efiected by such a machine as that of myprior application and to this end the construction of themachine willfirst he explained;

Referringtothedrawing,2isapartm late formed from a relatively thinflexible sheet of metal. This plate has a wide shank portion adaptgl tobe secured by means of screws 3 to the top of the work table 4 of aneyeleting machine. The plate 2 is slotted for urposa of adjustment andis secured in place above a block 5 which serves to lift it above theworkBtab}; and may act alsoasauedgegage. y 'sarmugemeut the in which theeyelets are to be set is allow to gas under the plate 2 while the outerpart of the upper may pass over the 1119,1512. The pliiteh2 is 833;}? atShin permit epas'ageo t epun mem r 11. The slot is of suflicient lengthso that it will not interfere with the feeding movement of the punch andextends in the direction of the feed to and through the neck portion 10d the part 2.

The part 2 is provided with a projecting rtion 9, the neck 10 of saidportion 9 bent downwardly as shown in Fig. 2 so that the punch 11 whenmoving forward to feed the stock will pass out of the opening 8 and overthe forward projection 9. On the under side of the projection 9 issecured an upsetting die or upper set member 12 which codperates withthe set 13 of the machine, and when the punch has com pleted its-forwardfeed movement it is directly over the upper set 12 m shown in Fig.

4. The forward feed movement of the punch causes the neck portion of theart 2 to disengage the inner part 6, or lining, from the point of thepunch, and the engagement of the punch with the outer part 7 of thestock carries the leather forward until the upsetting die is located inthe hole just formed by the punch in the lining. When the punch is inthis position the underset 13 with the eyelet 14 in position as shown inFl 1, 2 and 3 is moved upwardly and the eye et is set in the lining part6 as shown in Fig. 4. The part 2 together with its pro- 18Ctlnilld 9 maybe made of comparatively thin eet material, because at the timetheeyelet is set it is backed up by the punch and is therefore heldrigidly and prevented from yielding. After the 'eyelet is set the punchmoves upwardly and toward the right as seen in Fig. 4 and again descendsthrough the slot 8 cutting bola in both the u per and lower pieces 7 and6 and again the stock forward stopping directly over the upsetting die12 on the projection 9, and another eyelet is then set in the lowerstrip and the operation re ated. The construction and operation 0 thepunch, as also the lower set, are well known to those skilled in the artand do not require detailed description.

In practising the method of the present invention, when the abovedescribed machine is employed, the upper is presented with the liningpart 6 below the plate 10 and the leather or outer part 7 above theplate 10, the two parts being secured together by cement as indicated byreference character 20 in Fig. 5. The late 10 is so she as to extendonly a ort distance wi the edge of the upper so that the two partsthereof remain in contact or closely adjacent to each other oversubstantially the entire area during the eyeleting operation, Theinsertion of the thin plate 10 at the edge of the upper in no waydisturbs the normal relation of the which as already stated has beenesta lished and is maintained throughout the operation and in thefinished shoe. The work is then punched and advanced to a position inwhich the holes are in alinement with the under set 13 which is thenelevated to insert an eyelet through the 6, while the hole in theleather part is h d positively in alinement by the tool 11. The eyeletbarrel is met by the upsetting die 12 which clenches the barrel upon thelining entirely beneath the leather portion 7. These steps are thenrepeated until the number of eyelets required inthe series hasbeenset.

Having thus described my novel method and one suitable form of apparatusby which it may be carried into efiect, I claim as new and desire tosecure by Patent:

L Inthemanufactureofbootsandshom,

through the lining from the two parts of the method of inserting blindeyelets which consists in perforating both the leather and the liningparts of a shoe upper by means of a punching tool, inserting an eyeletthe inside of the upper, and clenching the end of its barrel on thecovered side of the lining beneath the leather part of the upper whilethe leather part is held by the punching tool which has been insertedtherein and while the upper occupy the same normal relation that ispreserved in the finished shoe.

2. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, the method of inserting blindeyelets which consists in perforating both the leather and the liningparts of a shoe upper while said parts are held in their normalsuperposed relation, inserting an eyelet through the lining from theinside of the upper, and clenching the end of its barrel on the liningwhile the hole in the leather part is positively held in register withthe eyelet and while the two parts of the upper are maintained in saidnormal relation and in contact over substantially their entire area.

In the manufacture of boots and shoes, that method which consists insecuring together in normal relation the leather and lining parts of a.shoe upper, perforating both parts, and setting an eyelet in one part inregister with tained in said normal relation and adjacent-to each otherand with the hole positively held in alinement with the eyelet duringthe setting operation.

4. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, that method which consists insecuring together in normal relation theleather and lining parts of ashoe upper, perforating both parts, introducing an upsetting surface thehole inthe other part while the two parts of the upper are mainbetweenthe two parts, and thereafter insorting an eyelet through the lini'iigpart and clenching its barrel against the upsetting surface on thelining part and, independently of the leather part and while the hole inthe leather part is held positively in alinement with the eyelet beingset.

5. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, the method of inserting blindeyelets which consists in securing together the linin and .outer partsof an upper in that re ation which they are to occupy in the finishedshoe, perforating both parts by means of a punching tool, inserting-aneyelet through the lining art'from,the inside of the upper, andclenching the end of the eyelet barrel on the concealed side of theliningbeneath the outer part before the punching tool is withdrawn fromthe upper and while the two parts of the upper occupy their normalrelation.

6. In the'manufacture of boots and shoes, the method which consists insecuring together the lining and outer parts of an upper in the normalrelation which is to be preserved in the finished shoe, and setting aseries of blind eyelets by alternating the step of punching both partsof the upper with the step of inserting an eyelet through the liningpart only and clenching-its barrel on the surface of the lining adjacentto the outer part, said steps being continued until the required numberof blind ey elets has been set in the upper.

In testimony whereof I have signed my nam to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

' ALFRED B. WVALES. Witnesses:

WILLIAM Hnemis, llannrsouW. German.

It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 143,740, granted June22,

1915,,upon the application of Alfrcd B. Wales, of Whitmun,Massechnsetts, for

an improvement in The Art of Shoemeking," an error appears in theprinted specification requiring correction as'follows: Page 2, line 90,for the words lower strip read lining'part; and that the braid LettersPatent should be read with this correction therein that the same mayconform to the record of the case in the Patent Ofiice.

Signed and sealed this 22d day of February, A. D., 1916 f R. F.\VHITEHEAD.

Acting C'ornmt'im'oner of Patents.

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